Grootbos: Natural Paradise by the Sea (Part One)

10/16/17


The Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is a two-hour drive south of Cape Town near the coastal city of Gansbaai. Housed within it are two luxurious lodges: the Forest Lodge and Garden Lodge, nestled along the fynbos-covered mountains overlooking Walker Bay. The area is most well-known for its floral diversity and marine wildlife. The reserve is home to a wide variety of plants, more than 700 unique species, some of which can only be found on the reserve.

Sadly, Grootbos was the last stop on our South African adventure. So, we tried our best to experience all the great activities the area has to offer!

To-Do List:

  • Horseback riding
  • Quad-bike tour
  • Explore old ocean caves along the coast
  • Whale watching
  • Shark-cage diving

Notes:

  • There are many activities available for guests to choose from. Some of the activities are included in the price of your stay, but others might incur additional costs.
  • If weather is inclement, marine excursions will be cancelled. The guides are prompt about any changes in plans, but be prepared.
  • Seasickness can be debilitating. Be prepared with any pills or patches if you are prone to motion-sickness. The seas can get rough.
  • All meals are provided, but any drinks ordered from the bar are settled separately.

The drive from Cape Town to Gansbaai was cold and rainy. Along the way, we passed by several townships and housing projects.




Further out, we passed through more farmland and forests. Some of the trees were reminiscent of the pines in the Pacific northwest.


The weather had cleared up by the time we arrived at Grootbos. Right away, we noticed how green and lush the landscape was.




Our driver dropped us off in the main parking lot and bid us farewell. Here, we met Bongani, our personal guide for our stay. He was very welcoming and very excited to show us around!



There are two main lodges in Grootbos: the Garden Lodge and Forest Lodge. The Garden Lodge is a bit friendlier for families with children, whereas the Forest Lodge caters better to couples. We opted to stay in the latter.



As soon as we entered the main lodge, we were floored by the view of Walker Bay!





We were offered warm towels by the ladies at the front desk to freshen up. Then, the bartender brought us a "welcome drink" of ginger ale and fruit. It was nice to have something to sip on while we checked in.


Upon arrival, guests are asked to select activities for each day of the stay. We had some excursions pre-booked through our travel group, andBeyond. However, for the empty spaces in our schedule, we were offered a selection of activities by the lodge.

When we were finished checking in and planning our days, our rooms were still being prepared. So, we went into the dining hall to have lunch. Lunch was small: a salad, some fresh bread, and beer.



The local beer, Laughing Croc, is quite delicious and very refreshing!


Dessert was espresso creme brulee, along with an actual espresso.



When we were finished, we were taken to our rooms.  The rooms are essentially private cabins, accessible through a forest-covered walkway. The tall trees made each room feel comfortably secluded.




Each room has all the standard amenities a luxury hotel would have: fully stocked fridge, air conditioning, WiFi, TV, etc. Some unique features include a free-standing fireplace, an extra bathroom, and a private balcony with an outdoor shower.



There are floor-to-ceiling windows in just about every room. So, there's always view!






We spent some time unpacking and freshening up before meeting back at the main lodge for our first activity: horseback riding!


For some of us, it was the first time riding a horse. I hadn't ridden one since I was in grade school!

Our guide helped us carefully mount our horses. Then, we started off trotting along the trail.


We rode along thick brush on the lower part of the hillside. As we climbed higher, we found ourselves surrounded by a beautiful rose-colored flower known as Erica irregularis. This type of flower is found only in Grootbos, nowhere else in South Africa!



Even though we caught a bit of rain, the gray storm clouds made for a majestic view.


The whole ride took about an hour, with short breaks throughout to rest.

When we returned to the ranch, we carefully dismounted and wandered around while waiting for Bongani to pick us back up. Our horse-riding guide gave us a quick tour of the farm. Most of the animals were sheltered away from the rain.


  
The pigs were fast asleep, huddled in straw for warmth.



We also got up-close and personal with our horses!



After saying thanks and goodbye to our horse-riding guide, we went back to the main lodge.

While Grootbos is primarily a nature reserve, it's also a luxury hotel and spa. Since we had some time to spare before dinner, we scheduled a couple's massage at the Bloom Beauty Salon.



The forest ambiance helped make the spa treatment all the more relaxing.

  

The hour-long, full-body massage was a wonderful way to unwind before dinner!

Dinners at Grootbos are fancy, six-course meals. Guests can select an appetizer, a main course, and a dessert. The rest of the courses are selected by the chef. It's intimidating at first, but the food is delicious!



In between the courses are tiny palate cleansers. For example, a small scoop of grape sorbet.


This pan-fried fish plate is as delicious as it is artistic!



The dishes are really well put-together!

Even after only half a day of activities in Grootbos, we were very tired. Right after dinner, we were ready to call it a night. When we arrived back at our room, we found it had been cleaned and the beds turned down!


Day Two - Bikes, Hikes, and Seaside Wine


For some reason, we had trouble sleeping. We ended up waking up really early and staying up to watch the sunrise.



Since we had plenty of time to get ready, I took a shower out in the crisp morning air.


Like the other hotels we've stayed at, the breakfast offerings at Grootbos are amazing! It consists of a buffet with a wide selection of fruits, nuts, juices, pastries, etc.





If guests aren't satisfied with the selection, there's a menu for cooked meals as well! I decided to try the traditional breakfast plate.


After breakfast, we hung around the main lodge until Bongani met up with us for our first scheduled activity of the day: quad biking!

The quad-bike tour starts on a ranch located a short drive from the main lodge. When we arrived, we met our guide for the tour, a nice gentleman with long hair and riding gloves. Beside him were four, high-powered Suzuki quad bikes!



Each bike holds a up to two riders. Unfortunately, one of the bikes wasn't able to start, so two of us had to double-up on one. They're similar to most ATV's in America, with the added twist of being a manual transmission.

It took some getting used to, but we managed to get going on the trail!


The trail weaves in and out of the forest canopy, with stops along the way. While our guide led us the whole time, we were pretty free to speed, twist, and turn however we wanted!


Unlucky for us, another one of the bikes broke down... So, two more of us had to double-up on one bike.


The riding continued all over the eastern region of the reserve, climbing high up on one of the mountains. It's a bumpy ride to the top, but the views of Walker Bay at the end are breathtaking!




We took our time getting back down to the ranch. We sped through deep puddles of mud, round-and-round a mini racetrack, and back through the forest canopy. It was an absolute blast!

After thanking our quad-bike guide for the tour, we went back to our rooms to wash off the dust and mud from our clothes. Then, we made our way to the dining hall for lunch.


The "grilled meat-wrap" was basically a quesadilla, and it was really good!



Once we finished lunch, we met up with Bongani for our afternoon activities.

We drove a couple of minutes from the main lodge to take a tour of the Green Futures College. It's a school on the reserve offering the local population an opportunity to get an education in nature conservation or small-business development.


There's a strong focus on horticulture and sustainability. Most of the food, water, soap, and plants in the hotel are produced right on the reserve.



In one of the classrooms, there were students learning about hospitality. The teacher introduced herself and gave us a quick rundown of the curriculum. We didn't want to be too much of a distraction, so we left soon after.


We hopped back into the van and drove down along the water towards the small town of De Kelders. Here, we walked along a cliff-side trail towards some ancient caves.



The wind really picked up, forcing large waves to crash into the rocky shore.


Along the upper part of the trail, we could see some of the effects of the ocean on the rocky cliffs.



We continued down some stairs closer to the water's edge.


When we made it down to the entrance to the caves, the tide was coming in fast. If the tide gets too high, it's much too dangerous to walk the path into the cave. It's recommended to explore the caves in the morning as opposed to the afternoon.

Unfortunately for us, we were a bit too late in the day to go into any caves. Instead, we enjoyed the view of the ocean!



We hurried back up the stairs to the safety up above. It was a quick hike on the sandy trail back to the van.


After our hike, Bongani took us to Gansbaai to visit his township. It was an intimidating and extremely humbling experience.


There are several types of properties within a township. One of which is a government-built home known as a "Mandela house". There are certain requirements for tenants who live in these houses, which include employment and familial restrictions.


Townships also have a number of small businesses, including restaurants and grocery stands.



The other type of home found in townships are "backyard shacks". These are technically illegal, but its inhabitants have nowhere else to live.



Bongani invited us into his home and we chatted about his day-to-day life. It's a very special experience, being welcomed into someone else's home. We were very moved by his generosity and humility. Visiting his township was definitely one of the most memorable experiences of our whole South African trip.

After we left Bongani's home, we drove back down towards De Kelders for a "surprise" activity: sparkling wine and snacks!


  
There's a small house with a private patio and a view of Walker Bay. It's owned by the same owners of the Grootbos lodges.



We sipped wine as we watched the sun set over the stormy ocean.


We were also lucky enough to see a whale swimming around the bay!


What a great way to see the sunset!



After the surprise sunset viewing, we felt compelled to invite Bongani to have dinner with us back at the lodge. He happily accepted the offer!

Dinner and drinks with great company was a great way to end the night!


You can find more photos and read more about our visit to Grootbos in part two!


Special thanks to my good friend, John Ocampo, for sharing his photos with us!


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